Lift & Glow

CLINICAL STUDIES ON THE FOLLOWING INGREDIENTS:

Maple Leaf Complex

Cosmetic applications of glucitol-core containing gallotannins from a proprietary phenolic-enriched red maple (Acer rubrum) leaves extract: inhibition of melanogenesis via down-regulation of tyrosinase and melanogenic gene expression in B16F10 melanoma cells

Abstract

The red maple (Acer rubrum) is a rich source of phenolic compounds which possess galloyl groups attached to different positions of a 1,5-anhydro-d-glucitol core. While these glucitol-core containing gallotannins (GCGs) have reported antioxidant and antiglycative effects, they have not yet been evaluated for their cosmetic applications. Herein, the anti-tyrosinase and anti-melanogenic effects of a proprietary phenolic-enriched red maple leaves extract [Maplifa™; contains ca. 45% ginnalin A (GA) along with other GCGs] were investigated using enzyme and cellular assays. The GCGs showed anti-tyrosinase activity with IC50 values ranging from 101.4 to 1047.3 μM and their mechanism of tyrosinase inhibition (using GA as a Electronic supplementary material representative GCG) was evaluated by chelating and computational/modeling studies. GA reduced melanin content in murine melanoma B16F10 cells by 79.1 and 56.7% (at non-toxic concentrations of 25 and 50 μM, respectively), and its mechanisms of anti-melanogenic effects were evaluated by using methods including fluorescent probe (DCFDA), real-time PCR, and western blot experiments. These data indicated that GA was able to: (1) reduce the levels of reactive oxygen species, (2) down-regulate the expression of MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2 gene levels in a timedependent manner, and (3) significantly reduce protein expression of the TRP-2 gene. Therefore, the anti-melanogenic effects of red maple GCGs warrant further investigation of this proprietary natural product extract for potential cosmetic applications.

Source: Hang Ma, Jialin Xu, Nicholas A. DaSilva, Ling Wang, Zhengxi Wei, Liangran Guo, Shelby L. Johnson, Wei Lu, Jun Xu, Qiong Gu, and Navindra P. Seeram.“Cosmetic applications of glucitol-core containing gallotannins from a proprietary phenolic-enriched red maple (Acer rubrum) leaves extract: inhibition of melanogenesis via down-regulation of tyrosinase and melanogenic gene expression in B16F10 melanoma cells” Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg (2017).

Cytoprotective effects of a proprietary red maple leaf extract and its major polyphenol, ginnalin A, against hydrogen peroxide and methylglyoxal induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes

Abstract

Phytochemicals from functional foods are common ingredients in dietary supplements and cosmetic products for anti-skin aging effects due to their antioxidant activities. A proprietary red maple (Acer rubrum) leaf extract (Maplifa™) and its major phenolic compound, ginnalin A (GA), have been reported to show antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, and anti-glycation effects but their protective effects against oxidative stress in human skin cells remain unknown. Herein, we investigated the cytoprotective effects of Maplifa™ and GA against hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and methylglyoxal (MGO)-induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells). H2O2 and MGO (both at 400 μM) induced toxicity in HaCaT cells and reduced their viability to 59.2 and 61.6%, respectively. Treatment of Maplifa™ (50 μg mL-1) and GA (50 μM) increased the viability of H2O2- and MGO-treated cells by 22.0 and 15.5%, respectively. Maplifa™ and GA also showed cytoprotective effects by reducing H2O2-induced apoptosis in HaCaT cells by 8.0 and 7.2%, respectively. The anti-apoptotic effect of Maplifa™ was further supported by the decreased levels of apoptosis associated enzymes including caspases-3/7 and -8 in HaCaT cells by 49.5 and 19.0%, respectively. In addition, Maplifa™ (50 μg mL-1) and GA (50 μM) reduced H2O2- and MGO-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) by 84.1 and 56.8%, respectively. Furthermore, flow cytometry analysis showed that Maplifa™ and GA reduced MGO-induced total cellular ROS production while increasing mitochondria-derived ROS production in HaCaT cells. The cytoprotective effects of Maplifa™ and GA in human keratinocytes support their potential utilization for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

Source: Chang Liu, Hao Guo, Joel A Dain, Yinsheng Wan, Xing-Hua Gao, Hong-Duo Chen, Navindra P Seeram, andHang Ma. “Cytoprotective effects of a proprietary red maple leaf extract and its major polyphenol, ginnalin A, against hydrogen peroxide and methylglyoxal induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes” Food and Function. (2020): 11(6):5105-5114.

Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu plum) Fruit Extract

A Split-face Double-blind Randomized Placebo-controlled Trial of the Efficacy of Kakadu Plum Extract for Reduction of Periorbital Wrinkles

Abstract

Background: Periorbital wrinkles result from both intrinsic and extrinsic aging. To combat aging and treat wrinkles, antioxidants play an important role by decreasing oxidative stress. Kakadu plum (Terminalia ferdinandiana) extract is well known for its great amount of vitamin C as main ingredient which can scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) and give anti-aging effects.

Objective: To study effectiveness and satisfaction of Kakadu plum extract to reduce periorbital wrinkles

Method: 17 volunteers, both male and female of age between 25 and 60 years old who willingly wanted to get rid of their periorbital wrinkles were collected to participate in split-face double-blinded placebo-controlled trial for 8 weeks. 10% Terminalia ferdinandiana extract cream and placebo cream were instructed to apply twice daily to periorbital area for 8 weeks. Various parameters such as wrinkle evaluation by dermatologists, elasticity and hydration of the skin around the eyes (crow’s feet area and undereye area) were assessed at the start, 4^thand 8^th week respectively.

Result: Statistically significant results of better skin elasticity (p-value <0.001 at crow’s feet, p-value=0.029 at undereye) and better skin hydration (p-value=0.001 at crow’s feet, p-value=0.012 at undereye) were shown for Terminalia ferdinandiana extract treated side. No side effects were observed.

Conclusion: This study statistically demonstrated that Kakadu plum extract reduced periorbital wrinkles more than placebo cream when it is applied topically with no harmful side effects. So, 10% Terminalia ferdinandiana could be safe and effective to reduce periorbital wrinkles.

Source: May Thinn Kyi, M.D. “A Split-face Double-blind Randomized Placebo-controlled Trial of the Efficacy of Kakadu Plum Extract for Reduction of Periorbital Wrinkles” The 15^th RSU National Graduate Research Conference/Health Science Articles Vol 15 No (2563).

Aloe Barbadensis

Aloe Vera: A Short Review

Abstract

Aloe vera is a natural product that is now a day frequently used in the field of cosmetology. Though there are various indications for its use, controlled trials are needed to determine its real efficacy. The aloe vera plant, its properties, mechanism of action and clinical uses are briefly reviewed in this article.

Active components with its properties: Aloe vera contains 75 potentially active constituents: vitamins, enzymes, minerals, sugars, lignin, saponins, salicylic acids and amino acids.*

Vitamins: It contains vitamins A (beta-carotene), C and E, which are antioxidants. It also contains vitamin B12, folic acid, and choline. Antioxidant neutralizes free radicals.
Enzymes: It contains 8 enzymes: aliiase, alkaline phosphatase, amylase, bradykinase, carboxypeptidase, catalase, cellulase, lipase, and peroxidase. Bradykinase helps to reduce excessive inflammation when applied to the skin topically, while others help in the breakdown of sugars and fats.
Minerals: It provides calcium, chromium, copper, selenium, magnesium, manganese, potassium, sodium and zinc. They are essential for the proper functioning of various enzyme systems in different metabolic pathways and few are antioxidants.
Sugars: It provides monosaccharides (glucose and fructose) and polysaccharides: (glucomannans/polymannose). These are derived from the mucilage layer of the plant and are known as mucopolysaccharides. The most prominent monosaccharide is mannose-6-phosphate, and the most common polysaccharides are called glucomannans [beta-(1,4)-acetylated mannan]. Acemannan, a prominent glucomannan has also been found. Recently, a glycoprotein with antiallergic properties, called alprogen and novel anti-inflammatory compound, C-glucosyl chromone, has been isolated from Aloe vera gel.*
Anthraquinones: It provides 12 anthraquinones, which are phenolic compounds traditionally known as laxatives. Aloin and emodin act as analgesics, antibacterials and antivirals.
Fatty acids: It provides 4 plant steroids; cholesterol, campesterol, β-sisosterol and lupeol. All these have anti-inflammatory action and lupeol also possesses antiseptic and analgesic properties.
Hormones: Auxins and gibberellins that help in wound healing and have anti-inflammatory action.
Others: It provides 20 of the 22 human required amino acids and 7 of the 8 essential amino acids. It also contains salicylic acid that possesses anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Lignin, an inert substance, when included in topical preparations, enhances penetrative effect of the other ingredients into the skin. Saponins that are the soapy substances form about 3% of the gel and have cleansing and antiseptic properties.

Mechanism of actions

Healing properties: Glucomannan, a mannose-rich polysaccharide, and gibberellin, a growth hormone, interacts with growth factor receptors on the fibroblast, thereby stimulating its activity and proliferation, which in turn significantly increases collagen synthesis after topical and oral Aloe vera.* Aloe gel not only increased collagen content of the wound but also changed collagen composition (more type III) and increased the degree of collagen cross linking. Due to this, it accelerated wound contraction and increased the breaking strength of resulting scar tissue.* An increased synthesis of hyaluronic acid and dermatan sulfate in the granulation tissue of a healing wound following oral or topical treatment has been reported.*
Effects on skin exposure to UV and gamma radiation: Aloe vera gel has been reported to have a protective effect against radiation damage to the skin.* Exact role is not known, but following the administration of aloe vera gel, an antioxidant protein, metallothionein, is generated in the skin, which scavenges hydroxyl radicals and prevents suppression of superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase in the skin. It reduces the production and release of skin keratinocyte-derived immunosuppressive cytokines such as interleukin-10 (IL-10) and hence prevents UV-induced suppression of delayed type hypersensitivity.*
Anti-inflammatory action: Aloe vera inhibits the cyclooxygenase pathway and reduces prostaglandin E2 production from arachidonic acid. Recently, the novel anti-inflammatory compound called C-glucosyl chromone was isolated from gel extracts.*
Effects on the immune system: Alprogen inhibit calcium influx into mast cells, thereby inhibiting the antigen-antibody-mediated release of histamine and leukotriene from mast cells.* In a study on mice that had previously been implanted with murine sarcoma cells, acemannan stimulates the synthesis and release of interleukin-1 (IL-1) and tumor necrosis factor from macrophages in mice, which in turn initiated an immune attack that resulted in necrosis and regression of the cancerous cells.* Several low-molecular-weight compounds are also capable of inhibiting the release of reactive oxygen free radicals from activated human neutrophils.*
Laxative effects: Anthraquinones present in latex are a potent laxative. It increases intestinal water content, stimulates mucus secretion and increases intestinal peristalsis.*
Antiviral and antitumor activity: These actions may be due to indirect or direct effects. Indirect effect is due to stimulation of the immune system and direct effect is due to anthraquinones. The anthraquinone aloin inactivates various enveloped viruses such as herpes simplex, varicella zoster and influenza.* In recent studies, a polysaccharide fraction has shown to inhibit the binding of benzopyrene to primary rat hepatocytes, thereby preventing the formation of potentially cancer-initiating benzopyrene-DNA adducts. An induction of glutathione S-transferase and an inhibition of the tumor-promoting effects of phorbol myristic acetate has also been reported which suggest a possible benefit of using aloe gel in cancer chemoprevention.*
Moisturizing and anti-aging effect: Mucopolysaccharides help in binding moisture into the skin. Aloe stimulates fibroblast which produces the collagen and elastin fibers making the skin more elastic and less wrinkled. It also has cohesive effects on the superficial flaking epidermal cells by sticking them together, which softens the skin. The amino acids also soften hardened skin cells and zinc acts as an astringent to tighten pores. Its moisturizing effects has also been studied in treatment of dry skin associated with occupational exposure where aloe vera gel gloves improved the skin integrity, decreases appearance of fine wrinkle and decreases erythema.* It also has anti-acne effect.
Antiseptic effect: Aloe vera contains 6 antiseptic agents: Lupeol, salicylic acid, urea nitrogen, cinnamonic acid, phenols and sulfur. They all have inhibitory action on fungi, bacteria and viruses.

Clinical uses: The clinical use of aloe vera is supported mostly by anecdotal data. Though most of these uses are interesting, controlled trials are essential to determine its effectiveness in all the following diseases.*

A. Uses based on scientific evidence: These uses have been tested in humans or animals. Safety and effectiveness have not always been proven.

Conditions: Seborrheic dermatitis,* psoriasis vulgaris,* genital herpes,* skin burns,* diabetes (type 2),* HIV infection,* cancer prevention,* ulcerative colitis* wound healing (results of aloe on wound healing are mixed with some studies reporting positive results* and others showing no benefit* or potential worsening*), pressure ulcers,* mucositis,* radiation dermatitis,* acne vulgaris,* lichen planus,* frostbite,* aphthous stomatitis,* and constipation.*

Source: Amar Surjushe, Resham Vasani, and D G Saple. “Aloe Vera: A Short Review” Indian Journal of Dermatology. (2008): 53(4): 163–166.

Rosa Canina Seed Oil (Rosehip)

**The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity**

Abstract

Objective: To evaluate the effects of a rose hip powder (Hyben Vital^®) made from seeds and shells on cell senescence, skin wrinkling, and aging.

Methods: A total of 34 healthy subjects, aged 35–65 years, with wrinkles on the face (crow’s-feet) were subjected to a randomized and double-blinded clinical study of the effects of the rose hip powder, as compared to astaxanthin, a well-known remedy against wrinkles. During the 8-week study, half of the participants ingested the standardized rose hip product, while the other half ingested astaxanthin. Objective measurements of facial wrinkles, skin moisture, and elasticity were made by using Visioscan, Corneometer, and Cutometer at the beginning of the study, after 4 weeks, and after 8 weeks. Evaluation of participant satisfaction of both supplements was assessed using questionnaires. In addition, the effect of the rose hip preparation on cell longevity was measured in terms of leakage of hemoglobin through red cell membranes (hemolytic index) in blood samples kept in a blood bank for 5 weeks. Significance of all values was attained with P≤0.05.

Results: In the double-blinded study, the rose hip group showed statistically significant improvements in crow’s-feet wrinkles (P<0.05), skin moisture (P<0.05), and elasticity (P<0.05) after 8 weeks of treatment. A similar improvement was observed for astaxanthin, with P-values 0.05, 0.001, and 0.05. Likewise, both groups expressed equal satisfaction with the results obtained in their self-assessment. The rose hip powder further resulted in increased cell longevity of erythrocyte cells during storage for 5 weeks in a blood bank.

Conclusion: Results suggest that intake of the standardized rose hip powder (Hyben Vital^®) improves aging-induced skin conditions. The apparent stabilizing effects of the rose hip product on cell membranes of stored erythrocyte cells observed in this study may contribute to improve the cell longevity and obstructing skin aging.

Source: L. Phetcharat, K. Wongsuphasawat, and K. Winther. “The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity” Clinical Interventions in Aging (2015): 10: 1849–1856.

Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter

Protective effect of mango (Mangifera indica L.) against UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice

Abstract

Background: Mangifera indica L. (Anacardiaceae) is a medicinal plant whose extracts have been described as an antioxidant with anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory activities.

Purpose: Skin aging is a consequence of chronic sun exposure to the sun and therefore ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Naturally occurring antioxidants are known to reduce skin aging. Therefore, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the protective role of mango extract against UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice.

Methods: HR-1 hairless male mice (6 weeks old) were divided into three groups: control (n = 5), UVB-treated vehicle (n = 5), and UVB-treated mango extract (n = 5) groups. UVB-irradiated mice from the mango extract group were orally administered 0.1 ml of water containing 100 mg of mango extract/kg body weight per day. The inhibitory activity of mango extract on wrinkle formation was determined by the analysis of the skin replica, epidermal thickness based on histological examination, and damage to collagen fiber.

Results: The mean length of wrinkles in UVB-treated vehicle group significantly improved after the oral administration of mango extract, which significantly inhibited the increase in epidermal thickness and epidermal hypertrophy (P < 0.05). Furthermore, a marked increase in collagen bundles was observed in the UVB-treated group after the administration of mango extract by Masson's trichrome staining.

Conclusion: These results indicate that mango extract showed anti-photoaging activity in UVB-irradiated hairless mice.

Source: Jae Hyoung Song, Eun Young Bae, Goya Choi, Jin Won Hyun, Mi Young Lee, Hye Won Lee, and Sungwook Chae. “Protective effect of mango (Mangifera indica L.) against UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice” Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, & Photomedicine (2013): 29(2):84-9.

Mangifera sylvatica (Wild Mango): A new cocoa butter alternative

Abstract

Cocoa butter is the pure butter extracted from cocoa beans and is a major ingredient in the chocolate industry. Global production of cocoa is in decline due to crop failure, diseases and ageing plantations, leading to price fluctuations and the necessity for the industry to find high quality cocoa butter alternatives. This study explored the potential of a wild mango (Mangifera sylvatica), an underutilised fruit in south-east Asia, as a new Cocoa Butter Alternative (CBA). Analyses showed that wild mango butter has a light coloured fat with a similar fatty acid profile (palmitic, stearic and oleic acid) and triglyceride profile (POP, SOS and POS) to cocoa butter. Thermal and physical properties are also similar to cocoa butter. Additionally, wild mango butter comprises 65% SOS (1, 3-distearoyl-2-oleoyl-glycerol) which indicates potential to become a Cocoa Butter Improver (an enhancement of CBA). It is concluded that these attractive properties of wild mango could be prompted by a coalition of policy makers, foresters, food industries and horticulturists to promote more widespread cultivation of this wild fruit species to realise the market opportunity.

Source; Sayma Akhter, Morag A. McDonald, and Ray Marriott. “Mangifera sylvatica (Wild Mango): A new cocoa butter alternative” Scientific Reports-Nature Research (2016): 6: 32050.

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Cocoa Flavanol Supplementation Influences Skin Conditions of Photo-Aged Women: A 24-Week Double-Blind, Randomized, Controlled Trial

Abstract

Background: The consumption of dietary antioxidants is considered to be a good strategy against photo-aging. However, the results of previous clinical trials that investigated the effects of oral consumption of high-flavanol cocoa products on skin photo-aging have been contradictory.

Objective: The aim of this study was to investigate whether high-flavanol cocoa supplementation would improve the moderately photo-aged facial skin of female participants, by assessing skin wrinkles and elasticity.

Methods: We performed a 24-wk, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study to evaluate the effects of oral supplementation of cocoa flavanols on cutaneous photo-aging. All participants were moderately photo-aged Korean women with visible facial wrinkles (age range: 43-86 y). Participants were randomly assigned to receive a placebo beverage or cocoa beverage that contained 320 mg total cocoa flavanols/d. We measured wrinkles, skin elasticity, and hydration at baseline and at 12 and 24 wk. The primary endpoint was the mean percentage change in the average roughness value (Rz) at 24 wk.

Results: At 24 wk, the mean percentage change in Rz (primary endpoint) was significantly lower in the cocoa group than in the placebo group (-8.7 percentage points; 95% CI: -16.1, -1.3 percentage points; P = 0.023). The mean percentage changes in gross elasticity, as determined by a cutometer, also differed between the groups at 12 wk (9.1 percentage points; 95% CI: 1.5, 16.7 percentage points; P = 0.020) and 24 wk (8.6 percentage points; 95% CI: 1.0, 16.2 percentage points; P = 0.027). However, there were no significant differences in skin hydration and barrier integrity between the 2 groups.

Conclusions: In moderately photo-aged women, regular cocoa flavanol consumption had positive effects on facial wrinkles and elasticity. Cocoa flavanol supplementation may contribute to the prevention of the progression of photo-aging. This trial was registered at clinicaltrials.gov as NCT02060097.

Source: Hyun-Sun Yoon, Jong Rhan Kim, Gyeong Yul Park, Jong-Eun Kim, Dong Hun Lee, Ki Won Lee, and Jin Ho Chung. “Cocoa Flavanol Supplementation Influences Skin Conditions of Photo-Aged Women: A 24-Week Double-Blind, Randomized, Controlled Trial” Journal of Nutrition (2016): 146(1):46-50.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils

Abstract

Plant oils have been utilized for a variety of purposes throughout history, with their integration into foods, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical products. They are now being increasingly recognized for their effects on both skin diseases and the restoration of cutaneous homeostasis. This article briefly reviews the available data on biological influences of topical skin applications of some plant oils (olive oil, olive pomace oil, sunflower seed oil, coconut oil, safflower seed oil, argan oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, borage oil, jojoba oil, oat oil, pomegranate seed oil, almond oil, bitter apricot oil, rose hip oil, German chamomile oil, and shea butter). Thus, it focuses on the therapeutic benefits of these plant oils according to their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects on the skin, promotion of wound healing and repair of skin barrier.

3.19. Shea Butter. Shea butter is extracted from the kernels of the sheu tree (Vitellaria paradoxa). Shea butter is composed of triglycerides with oleic, stearic, linoleic, and palmitic fatty acids, as well as unsaponifiable compounds.* Shea butter is frequently used in the cosmetic industry due to its high percentage of the unsaponifiable fraction (e.g., triterpenes, tocopherol, phenols, and sterols), which possesses potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.* In the study of lipopolysaccharide-activated macrophage cells, shea butter exhibited anti-inflammatory effects through inhibition of iNOS, COX-2, and cytokines via the NF-κB pathway.* Additional research on AD has shown that the cream containing shea butter extract had the same efficacy as ceramide-precursor product.*

Source: Tzu-Kai Lin, Lily Zhong, and Juan Luis Santiago. “Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils” International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2018): 19(1): 70.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Effect of topical application of virgin coconut oil on skin components and antioxidant status during dermal wound healing in young rats

Abstract

Objectives: The present study was undertaken to evaluate the effect of a topical application of virgin coconut oil (VCO) on excision wounds in young rats.

Methods: Three sets of experiments with 3 groups of female Sprague-Dawley rats each consisting of 6 animals were used for studying wound closure time, antioxidant status and biochemical parameters. Group 1 was the control; groups 2 and 3 were treated with 0.5 and 1.0 ml VCO, respectively, 24 h after wound creation for 10 days. After the experimental period, the healing property of VCO was evaluated by monitoring the time taken for complete epithelization as well as levels of various parameters of the wound's granulation tissue. The collagen solubility pattern, glycohydrolase activity, and histopathology of the granulation tissue were also analyzed. The antioxidant status during wound healing was monitored continuously for 14 days.

Results: VCO-treated wounds healed much faster, as indicated by a decreased time of complete epithelization and higher levels of various skin components. Pepsin-soluble collagen showed a significant increase in VCO- treated wounds, indicating a higher collagen cross-linking. Glycohydrolase activities were also found to be increased due to a higher turnover of collagen. Antioxidant enzyme activities, and reduced glutathione and malondialdehyde levels were found to be increased on the 10th day after wounding, which were found to have returned to normal levels on day 14 in the treated wounds. The lipid peroxide levels were found to be lower in the treated wounds. A histopathological study showed an increase in fibroblast proliferation and neovascularization in VCO-treated wounds compared to controls.

Conclusion: The beneficial effect of VCO can be attributed to the cumulative effect of various biologically active minor components present in it.

Source: K. G. Nevin and T. Rajamohan. “Effect of topical application of virgin coconut oil on skin components and antioxidant status during dermal wound healing in young rats” Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2010): 23(6):290-7.

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria)

Medicinal plants used in treatment of inflammatory skin diseases

Abstract

Skin is an organ providing contact with the environment and protecting the human body from unfavourable external factors. Skin inflammation, reflected adversely in its functioning and appearance, also unfavourably affects the psyche, the condition of which is important during treatment of chronic skin diseases. The use of plants in treatment of inflammatory skin diseases results from their influence on different stages of inflammation. The paper presents results of the study regarding the anti-inflammatory activity of the plant raw material related to its influence on skin. The mechanism of action, therapeutic indications and side effects of medicinal plants used for treatment of inflammatory diseases of the skin are described.

Matricaria recutita L. (German chamomile) is the most known and commonly used medicinal plant. It has flower heads with white internal linguiform flowers and the external tubular – yellow, typical of the Asteraceae family. It contains the essential oil (the major components of which are α-bisabolol and its oxides A, B and C, matricin, which is converted to chamazulene by distillation and en-yn-dicycloethers) and flavone derivatives: apigenin, luteolin, and apigenin-7-glucoside.*

Extracts of matricaria flower exhibited anti-inflammatory activity by inhibition of prostaglandins and leukotrienes synthesis in vitro. α-Bisabolol and apigenin inhibited cyclooxygenase and 5-lipooxygenase activity, chamazulene inhibited only 5-lipooxygenase.* A dry extract of matricaria flower, applied locally, inhibited croton oil-induced oedema in vivo, comparably to benzydamine (anti-inflammatory synthetic drug).* Intradermal application of liposomal apigenin-7-glucoside inhibited skin inflammations induced in rats. Topical application of either the total chamomile extract or the flavonoid fraction only was very effective in reducing inflammation in a mouse model for croton oil-induced dermatitis. Apigenin and luteolin were more active than indometacin and phenylbutazone (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory synthetic drugs). Activity decreased in the following order: apigenin, luteolin, quercetin, myricetin, apigenin-7-glucoside, rutin.*

In the pharmacological study in humans, ointment containing matricaria flower extract was more effective than 0.1% hydrocortisone (anti-inflammatory synthetic drug) in reduced chemically-induced toxic dermatitis. Creams containing matricaria flower extract reduced UV-induced erythema.* In clinical studies, anti-inflammatory activity of ointment containing matricaria flower extract (treatment of patients suffering from inflammatory dermatoses on hands, forearms and lower legs) was comparable to that of 0.25% hydrocortisone, and superior to 0.75% fluocortin butyl ester and 5% bufexamac (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory synthetic drugs).* In another clinical study, after 2 weeks of treatment of patients with medium-degree atopic eczema, effectiveness of creams containing matricaria flower extract was superior to that of 0.5% hydrocortisone cream with respect to the symptoms of pruritus, erythema and desquamation.*

The essential oil of chamomile and α-bisabolol demonstrated bactericidal and fungicidal activity in vitro(mainly against Gram-positive bacteria, Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis and fungi Candida albicans).*

Matricaria flower is externally used for skin inflammations and irritations, bacterial skin diseases, nappy rash and cradle cap, eczema, wounds (infected and poorly healing), abscesses, frostbite, and insect bites.* Matricaria flower is used for baths, compresses or rinses and poultice.* Rare cases of contact allergy have been reported.*

Source: Renata Dawid-Pać. “Medicinal plants used in treatment of inflammatory skin diseases” Advances in Dermatology and Allergology. (2013): 30(3): 170–177.

Glycerin

Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions

Abstract

Glycerol is a trihydroxy alcohol that has been included for many years in topical dermatological preparations. In addition, endogenous glycerol plays a role in skin hydration, cutaneous elasticity and epidermal barrier repair. The aquaporin-3 transport channel and lipid metabolism in the pilosebaceous unit have been evidenced as potential pathways for endogenous delivery of glycerol and for its metabolism in the skin. Multiple effects of glycerol on the skin have been reported. The diverse actions of the polyol glycerol on the epidermis include improvement of stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier function and skin mechanical properties, inhibition of the stratum corneum lipid phase transition, protection against irritating stimuli, enhancement of desmosomal degradation, and acceleration of wound-healing processes. Even an antimicrobial effect has been demonstrated. Topical application of glycerol-containing products improves skin properties in diseases characterized by xerosis and impaired epidermal barrier function, such as atopic dermatitis. The increase of epidermal hydration by glycerol is critical in skin conditions aggravated by dry and cold environmental conditions, e.g. winter xerosis. This paper provides a review on effects of glycerol on the skin, the mechanisms of its action, and the potential applications of glycerol in dermatology.

Source; J. W. Fluhr, R. Darlenski, and C. Surber. “Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions” British Journal of Dermatology (2008): 159(1):23-34.

The 24-hour skin hydration and barrier function effects of a hyaluronic 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract moisturizing fluid: an intra-subject, randomized, assessor-blinded study

Abstract

Introduction: Moisturizing products are commonly used to improve hydration in skin dryness conditions. However, some topical hydrating products could have negative effects on skin barrier function. In addition, hydrating effects of moisturizers are not commonly evaluated up to 24 hours after a single application. Hyaluronic acid (HA) and glycerin are very well-known substances able to improve skin hydration. Centella asiaticaextract (CAE) could exert lenitive, anti-inflammatory and reepithelialization actions. Furthermore, CAE could inhibit hyaluronidase enzyme activity, therefore prolonging the effect of HA. A fluid containing HA 1%, glycerin 5% and stem cells CAE has been recently developed (Jaluronius CS [JCS] fluid).

Study aim: To evaluate and compare the 24-hour effects of JCS fluid on skin hydration and on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in healthy subjects in comparison with the control site.

Subjects and methods: Twenty healthy women, mean age 40 years, were enrolled in an intra-subject (right vs left), randomized, assessor-blinded, controlled, 1-day trial. The primary end points were the skin hydration and TEWL, evaluated at the volar surface of the forearm and in standardized conditions (temperature- and humidity-controlled room: 23°C and 30% of humidity) using a corneometer and a vapometer device at baseline, 1, 8 and 24 hours after JCS fluid application. Measurements were performed by an operator blinded for the treatments.

Results: Skin hydration after 24 hours was significantly higher (P=0.001; Mann–Whitney U test) in the JCS-treated area in comparison with the control site. JCS induced a significant (P=0.0001) increase in skin hydration at each evaluation time (+59% after 1 hour, +48% after 8 hours and +29% after 24 hours) in comparison with both baseline (P=0.0001) and non-treated control site (P=0.001). TEWL after 24 hours was significantly lower (P=0.049; Mann–Whitney U test) in the JCS-treated area in comparison with the control site (13±4 arbitrary units [AU] vs 16±6 AU). JCS fluid significantly reduced post-stripping TEWL in comparison with baseline after 1, 8 and 24 hours (−52%, −32% and −48%, respectively). In the control site, TEWL was not reduced in comparison with baseline values at each time point’s evaluation.

Conclusion: A single application of JCS significantly improves skin hydration for up to 24 hours at the same time as improving skin barrier function.

Source: Massimo Milani and Adele Sparavigna. “The 24-hour skin hydration and barrier function effects of a hyaluronic 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract moisturizing fluid: an intra-subject, randomized, assessor-blinded study” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2017): 10: 311–315.

Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract

Anti-inflammatory efficacy of topical preparations with 10% hamamelis distillate in a UV erythema test

Abstract

In 40 volunteers the efficacy of three lotions with 10% hamamelis distillates from different suppliers, two vehicles, dimethindene maleate 0.1% gel, hydrocortisone 1% cream and hydrocortisone 0.25% lotion were investigated in a modified UV erythema test with three UV dosages (1.2, 1.4 and 1.7 MED). The test preparations were applied occlusively over a 48-hour period following irradiation. Chromametric measurement of redness and visual assessment were performed 24, 48 and 72 h after induction of erythema. The hydrocortisone formulations were most effective in erythema suppression. An anti- inflammatory effect was noted for all three hamamelis lotions as well as for the vehicles. A significantly greater suppression of erythema than seen with the vehicles was noted for one of the hamamelis lotions at 1.4 MED. The efficacy of the antihistamine dimethindene maleate did not surpass the hamamelis lotions or the vehicles. Even though the differences between the hamamelis lotions were slight, it was possible to make an objective selection of the best hamamelis distillate for after sun purposes.

Source: B. J. Hughes-Formella, A. Filbry, J. Gassmueller, and F. Rippke“Anti-inflammatory efficacy of topical preparations with 10% hamamelis distillate in a UV erythema test” Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology(2002): 15(2):125-32.

Spirulina Platensis Extract

In vitro evaluation of Spirulina platensis extract incorporated skin cream with its wound healing and antioxidant activities

Abstract

Context: Algae have gained importance in cosmeceutical product development due to their beneficial effects on skin health and therapeutical value with bioactive compounds. Spirulina platensis Parachas (Phormidiaceae) is renowned as a potential source of high-value chemicals and recently used in skincare products.

Objective: This study develops and evaluates skin creams incorporated with bioactive S. platensis extract.

Materials and methods: Spirulina platensis was cultivated, the aqueous crude extract was prepared and in vitro cytotoxicity of S. platensis extract in the range of 0.001–1% concentrations for 1, 3 and 7 d on HS2 keratinocyte cells was determined. Crude extracts were incorporated in skin cream formulation at 0.01% (w/w) concentration and in vitro wound healing and genotoxicity studies were performed. Immunohistochemical staining was performed to determine the collagen activity.

Results: 0.1% S. platensis extract exhibited higher proliferation activity compared with the control group with 198% of cell viability after 3 d. Skin cream including 1.125% S. platensis crude extract showed enhanced wound healing effect on HS2 keratinocyte cell line and the highest HS2 cell viability % was obtained with this concentration. The micronucleus (MN) assay results indicated that S. platensis extract incorporated creams had no genotoxic effect on human peripheral blood cells. Immunohistochemical analysis showed that collagen 1 immunoreactivity was improved by increased extract concentration and it was strongly positive in cells treated with 1.125% extract incorporated skin cream.

Conclusions: The cell viability, wound healing activity and genotoxicity results showed that S. platensis incorporated skin cream could be of potential value in cosmeceutical and biomedical applications.

Source: Seda Gunes, Sedef Tamburaci, Meltem Conk Dalay, and Ismet Deliloglu Gurhanb. “In vitro evaluation of Spirulina platensis extract incorporated skin cream with its wound healing and antioxidant activities” Pharmaceutical Biology (2017):55(1): 1824–1832.

In vitro evaluation of Spirulina platensis extract incorporated skin cream with its wound healing and antioxidant activities

Abstract

Objective: This study develops and evaluates skin creams incorporated with bioactive S. platensis extract.

Conclusions: The cell viability, wound healing activity and genotoxicity results showed that S. platensisincorporated skin cream could be of potential value in cosmeceutical and biomedical applications.

Source: Seda Gunes, Sedef Tamburaci, Meltem Conk Dalay, and Ismet Deliloglu Gurhanb. “In vitro evaluation of Spirulina platensis extract incorporated skin cream with its wound healing and antioxidant activities” Pharmaceutical Biology (2017): 55(1): 1824–1832.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils

Abstract

1.4. Skin Inflammation and Proliferation. The skin encounters daily onslaught by exogenous stimuli. Noxious stimuli sometimes result in injuries and/or infections, leading to wound, inflammatory dermatoses, skin aging, or skin carcinogenesis. Inflammation takes place in response to these damages to the normal skin barrier. At the molecular level, the inflammatory response participates in a series of complex repair pathways related to the innate immune response, cutaneous differentiation, and skin barrier repair.* Initially, upon inflammatory response, the keratinocytes and the innate immune cells such as leukocytes (PMNs, macrophages, and lymphocytes), mast cells, and dendritic cells are activated.* Secreted cytokines such as IL-1α, TNF-α and IL-6 induce the chemokines of chemotaxis that attract the immune cells to the site of injury and infection. ROS are produced by activated keratinocytes and immune cells. Immune cells also secrete elastases and proteinases.* The inflammatory microenvironment contributes to tissue repair and infection prevention/control. However, the chemokines produced by activated keratinocytes and immune cells are also able to damage the skin tissue in proximity to the target of the inflammatory response. Therefore, the intensity of inflammation and the time to resolution are critical in avoiding or at least limiting damage to normal skin tissue.* Thus, modulation of inflammation is important in maintaining skin homeostasis. If the initial acute response fails to resolve the causative factor, then the inflammatory response will continue and the subsequent inflammatory microenvironment will disrupt skin homeostasis. If the dysregulation of inflammatory skin response persists, chronic inflammatory dermatoses such as AD or psoriasis will arise.*

In the epidermis, the metabolism of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) is highly active. Linoleic acid, the major 18-carbon n-6 PUFA in normal epidermis, in the epidermis is metabolized via the 15-lipoxygenase pathway mainly into 13-hydroxyoctadecadienoic acid, which possesses anti-proliferative properties.* Dietary deficiency of linoleic acid results in a scaly and pruritic skin disorder similar to AD in hairless mice.* Arachidonic acid, the second major PUFA in the skin, is another substrate of 15-lipoxygenase, by which it is transformed to 15-hydroxyeicosatetraenoic acid (15-HETE). 15-HETE specifically inhibits leukotriene B4-induced chemotaxis of human PMNs.* However, arachidonic acid is mainly metabolized via the cyclooxygenase (COX) pathway into the prostaglandins E(2), F(2α), and D(2).* At low concentrations, the prostaglandins function to modulate skin homeostasis, whereas, at high concentrations, they induce skin inflammation and hyperproliferation of keratinocytes.* Moreover, squamous cell carcinoma of skin is the neoplasm that consistently overexpresses COX-2 in the parenchyma and the mesenchyma of premalignant and malignant lesions.* Increased levels of prostaglandins E(2) and F(2α) in premalignant and/or malignant epithelial skin cancers are due to the constitutive upregulation of enzymes such as COX-2, causing increased prostaglandin biosynthesis and the downregulation of 15-hydroxy-prostaglandin dehydrogenase (15-PGDH), which is involved in the inactivation of prostaglandins*. Thus, topical supplementation with plant oils that provide local cutaneous anti-inflammatory and anti-proliferative metabolites could serve as the monotherapy or as adjuncts to standard therapeutic regimens for the management and prevention of both inflammatory skin disorders and actinic keratoses.

1.5. Reactive Oxidative Stress, Skin Aging and Skin Cancer. The aging of our skin can be discussed as two entities: chronological and environmentally- influenced aging.* Clinically, chronological and environmentally influenced aging show skin changes including thinning, loss of elasticity, roughness, wrinkling, increased dryness, and impairment of the skin barrier. Chronological aging depends on a decrease in cellular replacement (senescence) of the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis, but also from impairment in the remodeling of the extracellular matrix (e.g., collagen bundles and elastic fibers).* The second type of skin aging is mediated by extrinsic factors such as UV radiation, air pollution, smoking, changes in external temperature, and other agents of skin aging exposome.* Photoaging by chronic exposure to UV radiation is the best characterized. Clinical signs of photoaging include dyspigmentation (mostly lentigo and freckling), solar elastosis, actinic keratosis, and seborrheic keratosis.* Photoaging is attributed to photo-oxidative damage to skin, mainly by high levels of ROS induced by UV radiation.* ROS result in collagen degradation and its accumulation in the dermis, also known as solar elastosis. ROS levels are regulated by antioxidant enzymes in skin such as superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and glutathione (GSH). If anti-oxidant defenses are overwhelmed after extensive UV light exposure, ROS production exceeds the capacity of antioxidant defenses in the skin.* This causes oxidative stress, which damages skin cells and alters their gene expression, leading to photoaging, but also promoting cutaneous carcinogenesis (non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancers).*

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil

Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils

Abstract

3.10. Avocado Oil. Avocado oil is derived from the fruit of the Persea americana. Avocado oil extracted from the pulp of the fruit is rich in linoleic acid (6.1–22.9%), linolenic acid (0.4–4.0%), and oleic acid (31.8–69.6%). It also contains β-sitosterol, β-carotene, lecithin, minerals, and vitamins A, C, D, and E.* It is an excellent source of enrichment for dry, damaged, or chapped skin.* Research has been conducted on the effect of topical administration of avocado fruit extract on wound models in rats, revealing faster re-epitheliazation and higher hydroxyproline content of the repaired wound.* The topical application of avocado oil in rats has also been shown to increase collagen synthesis and decrease the numbers of inflammatory cells during the WH process.*

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

The therapeutic effect of evening primrose oil in atopic dermatitis patients with dry scaly skin lesions is associated with the normalization of serum gamma-interferon levels

Abstract

To see if evening primrose oil (EPO) could be more effective in a certain type of atopic dermatitis, we administered EPO to 14 atopic dermatitis patients characterized by itchy dry scaly skin. Furthermore, we measured serum levels of gamma-interferon (IFN-gamma) and IgE in addition to the clinical severity before and after the treatment to find out whether the treatment effect of EPO is related with an immunological mechanism. After the treatment, the extent of the skin lesions and the pruritus were markedly reduced in all patients. While serum IFN-gamma levels were significantly increased (p < 0.01) after the treatment up to those of the normal control group, serum IgE levels showed a significant decrease (p < 0.05), failing to normalize completely. We concluded that EPO could be highly effective in the treatment of a grossly noninflammatory type of atopic dermatitis. The restoration of serum IFN-gamma levels indicates that EPO might exert its effect through the modulation of the immunological mechanism involving IFN-gamma.

Source: Sungpil Yoon, Jooheung Lee, and Seungchul Lee. “The therapeutic effect of evening primrose oil in atopic dermatitis patients with dry scaly skin lesions is associated with the normalization of serum gamma-interferon levels” Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology (2002): 15(1):20-5.

Lecithin

Final report on the safety assessment of Lecithin and Hydrogenated Lecithin

Abstract

Lecithin is a naturally occurring mixture of the diglycerides of stearic, palmitic, and oleic acids, linked to the choline ester of phosphoric acid, commonly called phosphatidylcholine. Hydrogenated Lecithin is the product of controlled hydrogenation of Lecithin. Bilayers of these phospholipids in water may form liposomes, a spherical structure in which the acyl chains are inside and not exposed to the aqueous phase. Lecithin and Hydrogenated Lecithin are used in a large number of cosmetic formulations as skin conditioning agents-miscellaneous and as surfactant-emulsifying agents. Hydrogenated Lecithin is also used as a suspending agent-nonsurfactant. Historical data on concentration of use of Lecithin reveals that 0.1% to 1.0% is the concentration range most frequently seen, with concentrations up to 50% reported for two moisturizing products. A solution of 65% Lecithin is currently reported to be used at concentrations up to 3% in cosmetics. Nonocclusive application of Lecithin-containing liposomes to murine skin resulted in 30% penetration to the subdermis. In piglet skin, the same application resulted in 99% accumulating in the stratum corneum. In general, liposomes are considered effective in capturing other compounds inside their spherical structure and delivering any such captured compound through the skin barrier. As a result, caution should be exhibited in formulating cosmetic products that contain these ingredients in combination with other ingredients whose safety is based on their lack of absorption or where dermal absorption is a concern. Lecithin is virtually nontoxic in acute oral studies, short-term oral studies, and subchronic dermal studies in animals. Lecithin is not a reproductive toxicant, nor is it mutagenic in several assays. In an oral carcinogenicity study, brain neoplasms were found in mice exposed to Lecithin. In a subcutaneous carcinogenicity study, no neoplasms were found in mice and rats exposed to Lecithin. Adverse reactions to Lecithin in a metered-dose inhaler have been reported. Lecithin and Hydrogenated Lecithin were generally nonirritating and nonsensitizing in animal and human skin. Based on the available data, Lecithin and Hydrogenated Lecithin are safe as used in rinse-off cosmetic products; they may be safely used in leave-on products at concentrations up to 15%, the highest concentration tested in clinical irritation and sensitization studies; but the safety of use could not be substantiated in cosmetic products likely to be inhaled. Because of the possibility of formation of nitrosamines, these ingredients should not be used in cosmetic products in which N-nitroso compounds may be formed.

Source: Z. Fiume“Final report on the safety assessment of Lecithin and Hydrogenated Lecithin^” International Journal of Toxicology (2001): 20 Suppl 1:21-45.

Potassium Sunflower seedate

Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier: implications for neonatal skin care

Abstract

Natural oils are advocated and used throughout the world as part of neonatal skin care, but there is an absence of evidence to support this practice. The goal of the current study was to ascertain the effect of olive oil and sunflower seed oil on the biophysical properties of the skin. Nineteen adult volunteers with and without a history of atopic dermatitis were recruited into two randomized forearm-controlled mechanistic studies. The first cohort applied six drops of olive oil to one forearm twice daily for 5 weeks. The second cohort applied six drops of olive oil to one forearm and six drops of sunflower seed oil to the other twice daily for 4 weeks. The effect of the treatments was evaluated by determining stratum corneum integrity and cohesion, intercorneocyte cohesion, moisturization, skin-surface pH, and erythema. Topical application of olive oil for 4 weeks caused a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema in volunteers with and without a history of atopic dermatitis. Sunflower seed oil preserved stratum corneum integrity, did not cause erythema, and improved hydration in the same volunteers. In contrast to sunflower seed oil, topical treatment with olive oil significantly damages the skin barrier, and therefore has the potential to promote the development of, and exacerbate existing, atopic dermatitis. The use of olive oil for the treatment of dry skin and infant massage should therefore be discouraged. These findings challenge the unfounded belief that all natural oils are beneficial for the skin and highlight the need for further research.

Source: Simon G. Danby, Tareq AlEnezi, Amani Sultan, Tina Lavender, John Chittock, Kirsty Brown, and Michael J. Cork. “Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier: implications for neonatal skin care” Pediatric Dermatology (2013):30(1):42-50.

Cera alba (Beeswax)

Bee Products in Dermatology and Skin Care

Abstract

Honey, propolis, bee pollen, bee bread, royal jelly, beeswax and bee venom are natural products which have been used in medicine since ancient times. Nowadays, studies indicate that natural bee products can be used for skin treatment and care. Biological properties of these products are related to flavonoids they contain like: chrysin, apigenin, kaempferol, quercetin, galangin, pinocembrin or naringenin. Several pharmacological activities of phenolic acids and flavonoids, and also 10-hydroxy-trans-2-decenoic acid, which is present in royal jelly, have been reported. Royal jelly has multitude of pharmacological activities: antibiotic, antiinflammatory, antiallergenic, tonic and antiaging. Honey, propolis and pollen are used to heal burn wounds, and they possess numerous functional properties such as: antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, disinfectant, antifungal and antiviral. Beeswax is used for production of cosmetics and ointments in pharmacy. Due to a large number of biological activities, bee products could be considered as important ingredients in medicines and cosmetics applied to skin.

4.5. Beeswax. When compared to other bee products, beeswax has the smallest range of biological activities. Kędzia* wrote that beeswax was added to ointments, liniments and creams used in treatment of various dermatoses, e.g., boils, wounds, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, diaper dermatitis caused by Candida albicans. Beeswax is mainly used as an emulsifying agent. In cosmetics, beeswax is used as a stiffener, a substance providing elasticity, plasticity and increasing skin adhesiveness. Beeswax is the base for lipsticks, sticks and creams.* Beeswax has lubricating, softening activities and reduces transepidermal water loss from skin. Sterols, which are also components of intercellular space, provide these characteristics of beeswax. Squalene, 10-hydroxy-trans-2-decenoic acid and flavonoids (chrysin) provide antiseptic properties to this product, and protect the skin against pathogenic microorganisms. Beeswax constitutes a protective barrier against many external factors by forming a film on the skin surface. β-carotene present in beeswax is a valuable source of vitamin A, into which it is converted. Vitamin A delays collagen degradation, stimulates mitotic division in the epidermis, thus leads to sooner regeneration of the skin after damage.*

Source: Anna Kurek-Górecka, Michał Górecki, Anna Rzepecka-Stojko, Radosław Balwierz, and Jerzy Stojko. “Bee Products in Dermatology and Skin Care” Molecules (2020): 25(3): 556.

Xanthan gum

Safety Assessment of Microbial Polysaccharide Gums as Used in Cosmetics

Abstract

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel assessed the safety of 34 microbial polysaccharide gums for use in cosmetics, finding that these ingredients are safe in cosmetic formulations in the present practices of use and concentration. The microbial polysaccharide gums named in this report have a variety of reported functions in cosmetics, including emulsion stabilizer, film former, binder, viscosity-increasing agent, and skin-conditioning agent. The Panel reviewed available animal and clinical data in making its determination of safety.

Cosmetic Use. The microbial polysaccharide gums named in this report have a variety of reported functions in cosmetics that include emulsion stabilizer, film former, binder, viscosity-increasing agent, and skin-conditioning agent.* The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) collects information from manufacturers on the use of individual ingredients in cosmetics as a function of cosmetic product category in its Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program (VCRP). The VCRP data obtained from the FDA in 2012,* and data received in response to a survey of the maximum reported use concentration by category conducted by the Personal Care Products Council (Council),* indicate that 19 of the 34 microbial polysaccharide gums named in this safety assessment are currently used in cosmetic formulations. Xanthan gum is used in almost every category of cosmetic product, with 3,470 reported uses. Biosaccharide gum-1, sclerotium gum, and beta-glucan are reported to be used in 346, 193, and 137 cosmetic formulations, respectively. All other in-use ingredients have less than 70 uses. The ingredient with the highest concentration of use is pullulan; it is used at up to 12% in leave-on formulations (ie, tonics, dressings, and other hair-grooming aids) and 17% in “other” oral hygiene products (a breath freshener that dissolved in the mouth*). Both xanthan gum and biosaccharide gum-1 are used at up to 6% in leave-on formulations, and xanthan gum crosspolymer and biosaccharide gum-4 are used at 5% in leave-on formulations. All other in-use ingredients are used at concentrations of ≤3%.

In some cases, reports of uses were received in the VCRP but no concentration of use is available. For example, sodium carboxymethyl dextran is reported to be used in 10 formulations, but no use concentration data were available. In other cases, no reported uses were received in the VCRP, but a use concentration was provided in the industry survey. For example, hydrolyzed sclerotium gum was not reported in the VCRP to be in use, but the industry survey indicated that it is used in leave-on formulations at up to 1%. It should be presumed that hydrolyzed sclerotium gum is used in at least 1 cosmetic formulation.

Rats were fed a diet containing 2% [14C]xanthan gum that was produced by fermentation of uniformly labeled glucose with Xanthomonas campestris.* No accumulation was found in the tissues. A maximum of 15% of the radioactivity was metabolized to carbon dioxide within 100 hours. Fecal analysis indicated that there was no accumulation of the polysaccharide material, except acetate (acetate and pyruvate accounted for only 9.8% of the label in the gum used). In the feces, 98% of the radioactivity was attributed to unchanged or slightly modified polysaccharide. In vitro testing indicated that nonenzymatic hydrolysis and fecal microorganisms were responsible for the in vivo breakdown of xanthan gum (no additional details were provided).

Source: Monice M. Fiume, Bart Heldreth, Wilma F. Bergfeld, Donald V. Belsito, Ronald A. Hill, Curtis D. Klaassen, Daniel C. Liebler, James G. Marks, Jr, Ronald C. Shank, Thomas J. Slaga, Paul W. Snyder, and F. Alan Andersen. “Safety Assessment of Microbial Polysaccharide Gums as Used in Cosmetics” International Journal of Toxicology (2016) Vol 35, Issue 1 suppl.

Tapioca Starch

A randomized controlled trial to compare the effectiveness and safety of adsorbent lotion containing tapioca starch, spent grain wax, Butyrospermum parkii extract, argania spinosa kernel oil, aloe barbadensis, rosehip oil, and allantoin with a low-potency topical corticosteroid in the treatment of intertrigo

Abstract

Background: Intertrigo is an inflammatory skin-fold condition. Candida infections may occur concurrently or afterward. Topical corticosteroids may reduce inflammation but exacerbate Candida infections. The treatment is contentious.

Objective: To evaluate the efficacies and safety of adsorbent lotion containing tapioca starch, spent grain wax, Butyrospermum parkii extract, argania spinosa kernel oil, aloe barbadensis, rosehip oil, and allantoin for the treatment of mild-to-moderate intertrigo, relative to 1% hydrocortisone cream.

Methods: This randomized, double-blinded study enrolled 40 intertrigo patients. Twice daily, 20 patients applied adsorbent lotion while the remainder used 1% hydrocortisone cream. Efficacy evaluation, skin biophysical measurements, skin tolerability, safety, and visual analog scale (VAS) patient-satisfaction scores were evaluated at baseline and Week 2.

Results: The adsorbent lotion showed higher complete cure rates for color, partial epidermal loss, papules/pustules/vesicles/patches, dryness, and scaling than the corticosteroid without statistical significance. Adsorbent lotion demonstrated significantly higher reduction in pruritus than the corticosteroid treatment. Reduction of erythema level using Mexameter and VAS patient-satisfaction scores were not statistically different between adsorbent lotion and hydrocortisone cream. No adverse effects or superimposed infections were reported.

Conclusions: The anti-inflammatory efficacies of adsorbent lotion and low-potency steroid were equivalent. The lotion was safe and produced excellent pruritus reduction. Patient satisfaction was high.

Source: Charussri Leeyaphan, Supenya Varothai, Suphattra Trakanwittayarak, Pranittra Suphatsathienkul, Suthasinee Pattaravadee, Lalita Matthapan, Waranyoo Prasong, Kamonpan Lertrujiwanit, Salisa Supcharoenkul, and Kanokvalai Kulthanan. “A randomized controlled trial to compare the effectiveness and safety of adsorbent lotion containing tapioca starch, spent grain wax, Butyrospermum parkii extract, argania spinosa kernel oil, aloe barbadensis, rosehip oil, and allantoin with a low-potency topical corticosteroid in the treatment of intertrigo” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2021): Apr 3.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil

Orange peel extract, containing high levels of polymethoxyflavonoid, suppressed UVB-induced COX-2 expression and PGE2 production in HaCaT cells through PPAR-γ activation

Abstract

Ultraviolet light (UV) induces an inflammatory response in the skin by cyclooxygenase (COX)-2 expression and prostaglandin (PG) E2 production. Citrus peel has been used as a natural medicine. It contains polymethoxyflavonoids (PMFs) as a major ingredient, which have anti-inflammatory activity. We obtained orange peel extract containing high levels of PMFs. The extract suppressed UVB-induced COX-2 expression and PGE2 production in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, it was found that this extract acted as a peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR)-γ agonist. The suppression of UVB-induced COX-2 expression by this extract was inhibited by GW 9662 and T0070907, which are both PPAR-γ antagonists. It is therefore suggested that orange peel extract, containing high levels of PMFs, suppresses UVB-induced COX-2 expression and PGE2 production through PPAR-γ. Hence, these extracts could provide useful protection against or alleviation of UV damage.

Source: Norihiro Yoshizaki, Takahiro Fujii, Hitoshi Masaki, Takeshi Okubo, Kunio Shimada, and Ron Hashizume. “Orange peel extract, containing high levels of polymethoxyflavonoid, suppressed UVB-induced COX-2 expression and PGE2 production in HaCaT cells through PPAR-γ activation” Experimental Dermatology” (2014): Suppl 1:18-22.

Lift & Glow

CLINICAL STUDIES ON THE FOLLOWING INGREDIENTS:

Maple Leaf Complex

Cosmetic applications of glucitol-core containing gallotannins from a proprietary phenolic-enriched red maple (Acer rubrum) leaves extract: inhibition of melanogenesis via down-regulation of tyrosinase and melanogenic gene expression in B16F10 melanoma cells

Abstract

Cytoprotective effects of a proprietary red maple leaf extract and its major polyphenol, ginnalin A, against hydrogen peroxide and methylglyoxal induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes

Abstract

Terminalia Ferdinandiana (Kakadu plum) Fruit Extract

A Split-face Double-blind Randomized Placebo-controlled Trial of the Efficacy of Kakadu Plum Extract for Reduction of Periorbital Wrinkles

Abstract

Aloe Barbadensis

Aloe Vera: A Short Review

Abstract

Rosa Canina Seed Oil (Rosehip)

The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity

Abstract

Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter

Protective effect of mango (Mangifera indica L.) against UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice

Abstract

Mangifera sylvatica (Wild Mango): A new cocoa butter alternative

Abstract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Cocoa Flavanol Supplementation Influences Skin Conditions of Photo-Aged Women: A 24-Week Double-Blind, Randomized, Controlled Trial

Abstract

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils

Abstract

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Effect of topical application of virgin coconut oil on skin components and antioxidant status during dermal wound healing in young rats

Abstract

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria)

Medicinal plants used in treatment of inflammatory skin diseases

Abstract

Glycerin

Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions

Abstract

The 24-hour skin hydration and barrier function effects of a hyaluronic 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract moisturizing fluid: an intra-subject, randomized, assessor-blinded study

Abstract

Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract

Anti-inflammatory efficacy of topical preparations with 10% hamamelis distillate in a UV erythema test

Abstract

Spirulina Platensis Extract

In vitro evaluation of Spirulina platensis extract incorporated skin cream with its wound healing and antioxidant activities

Abstract

In vitro evaluation of Spirulina platensis extract incorporated skin cream with its wound healing and antioxidant activities

Abstract

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils

Abstract

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil

Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils

Abstract

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

The therapeutic effect of evening primrose oil in atopic dermatitis patients with dry scaly skin lesions is associated with the normalization of serum gamma-interferon levels

Abstract

Lecithin

Final report on the safety assessment of Lecithin and Hydrogenated Lecithin

Abstract

Potassium Sunflower seedate

Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier: implications for neonatal skin care

Abstract

Cera alba (Beeswax)

Bee Products in Dermatology and Skin Care

Abstract

Xanthan gum

Safety Assessment of Microbial Polysaccharide Gums as Used in Cosmetics

Abstract

Tapioca Starch

Abstract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil

Orange peel extract, containing high levels of polymethoxyflavonoid, suppressed UVB-induced COX-2 expression and PGE2 production in HaCaT cells through PPAR-γ activation

Abstract

References:

Cookies

**The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity**